East Buttress, Beinn Eighe & Cuillin Traverse

Ken: I was up in Torridon yesterday, and out with Dave and Donald on East Buttress in Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe. This striking buttress makes up the lefter most flank of what must be one of the most impressive cliffs in the UK; Triple Buttress. From the road, there’s absolutely no hint that Beinn Eighe hosts such an impressive corrie, however, with such a good path all the way round, it’s easily reached.

The route itself takes a direct line up the quartzite buttress, but getting to it requires an exposed, yet technically straightforward and protectable traverse above the sandstone tier. Once established on the route, the climbing is quite sustained but steady away, with positive holds aplenty. For Donald and Dave, who have climbed Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis and Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean before, this route was the perfect progression. After 6 brilliant pitches and some easier ground, we found ourselves on the main ridge of Beinn Eighe. It was amazingly quiet, with only a couple of other teams climbing and a few folk out walking. It’s undoubtedly one of the finest routes of its grade in the UK!

Over on Skye, Steve was out with Heather and David, on their final day of a successful two day Cuillin Ridge Traverse. They took in all of the main climbs along the way. The continuing warm and dry conditions meant that plenty of other teams were also traversing the full ridge.

If you would like guiding on either the East Buttress of Beinn Eighe or a two day Cuillin Ridge Traverse, visit https://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/mountain-guide-scotland/ for more information.