Great Ridge Direct, Garbh Bheinn

Andy, Dave and I enjoyed yet another sunny day of rock climbing and mountaineering. Andy and Dave wanted a similar day to yesterday (rock climbing and mountaineering hybrid), and assuming that Buachaille Etive Mor, which is the obvious choice, would be busy, we decided to seek our adventures on Garbh Bheinn, just south of Ardgour. With the Corran Ferry not running until 8:45am this morning, we drove around Loch Eil and down the west side of Loch Linnhe, which takes about an hour.  Due to the prolonged dry spell, the approach to Garbh Coire Mor was much better underfoot than usual.

We climbed the Direct Start to the Great Ridge, which gives a reasonable five pitch climb. The highlight of the route is a right trending ramp on pitch 2, which starts off quite steeply, before leading into an airy traverse. The rock is generally excellent, with excellent friction and positive holds throughout.  The final pitch takes in a rather vegetated gully, which thankfully was bone dry today, and leads to the foot of the impressive Great Ridge, which must be one of the finest (and quietest) ridges in the UK. The line sticks very much to the crest, with only a couple of minor deviations, and again features excellent rock throughout. If anything, it is of higher quality than the climbing on the direct start beneath.

Both Andy and Dave enjoyed the adventure throughout, and appreciated the many fine situations that the route presented. We topped out to be greeted by a climber who had been having his own adventures on the South Wall. After a short time absorbing the panoramic vistas , we descended the SW Ridge.