Mountain Diary and Conditions

Welcome to the West Coast Mountain Guides diary and conditions page, which we will update regularly throughout the year.  During the winter, there will be plenty of up-to-date information and reports regarding the latest mixed and ice climbing and mountaineering conditions in the Scottish Highlands, and in particular, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in Glencoe.  We’ll also be posting accounts of our latest trips, both work and play. 

If you have any up-to-date conditions reports and photos that we can include in our blog, please drop us an email:
info@77.104.174.8


Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mor, for father and son team

After a day on the Cobbler, in Arrochar, yesterday, I was back out with David and his 12-year-old son, Harry. After a successful day on Ledge Route on Ben Nevis on Tuesday, we decided to up the challenge and tackled Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor today.

The weather was quite mixed as we set off, but improved steadily as the day progressed. I certainly think that one of the team found the scrambling easier than the other, you may be able to tell by who's smiling the most in the photos! To give you a clue, his name begins with H and rhymes with 'carry'.

That said, they did both enjoy themselves and did fantastically well! On reaching the summit of Stob Dearg, we had some great views towards Rannoch Mor and down Glen Coe.



Proagencies







Ben Nevis, the hard way!

I'm forever impressed by the enthusiasm and determination of folk and today was a fine example of just that. I was out with father and son team, David and Harry, who is 12 years old and fit as the butcher's dog.

We walked in to Coire na Ciste in much heavier rain than we were expecting, but this did nothing to curb David and Harry's enthusiasm and before long, we were high on Ledge Route, well sheltered from the strong southwesterly winds.

On topping out, it was hoods up and heads down to get to the summit of the UK's highest mountain, where we were able to hunker down in the summit shelter for ten minutes, before making our way down. A huge well done to them both, but in particular, to Harry, the budding mountaineer!



Proagencies






Snow on the summit of Ben Nevis!

I was out on Ben Nevis today, with Frederick and Christian, who are visiting from Sweden. They were keen to tackle Ledge Route on the north face, which is a brilliant introduction to this impressive face. We had a real mix of weather throughout the day, but the most notable thing was the snow on the summit plateau.

We made the summit in good time and took a wander back down the mountain path. Plenty of others out on the mountain today.

The ground is currently saturated, which will bode well as the temperatures cool down throughout autumn and before the proper snows arrive. Fingers crossed for a good winter ahead! 🤞❄️






Damp day on North Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor

After a very wet day on the Onich Slabs yesterday, Arabella and I decided that another big route was in order in preparation for her upcoming trip to Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia. With a similar forecast to the past couple of days, I.e. strong southwesterly wind and rain, we decided to seek shelter on Stob Dearg again and climbed North Buttress all the way to the summit, giving an excellent and varied route.

Needless to say, it was pretty wet, but fortunately, the rock, which is Rhyolite, where clean, doesn't tend to become much more slippery than when dry. For Arabella, the chimneys of North Buttress offered a contrasting style of climbing to what she was used to and so despite being a modest grade, it kept her thoroughly engaged all the way…

With Arabella keen to get in some more training prior to her trip, I suggested that she visited the Costa Blanca in Spain asap, which will be a bit different from our past few days!





More sunshine and dry rock than expected on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Nice to be back on home turf today! I was out with Arabella, who is in training for Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia's New Guinea and we made the most of the mixed forecast, by tackling Curved Ridge, one of the finest scrambles of its grade in the UK. The pictures don't paint the full picture, as despite our fair share of showers, we did get some sunshine and dry rock, as well as some excellent, if fleeting, views and a number of rainbows.

The wet rock and occasional gusts did nothing to slow Arabella down and we were soon on the summit of Stob Dearg, where it was made clear that we had been fairly well sheltered from the winds for much of the day!

As a side note, I've been hugely impressed with my Cross Mountain boots, which have kept my feet dry in some pretty wet conditions throughout the year.






No waterproofs required on Skye this week!

That's a wrap! Tom and I took our Skye Munros team up Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a'Mhadaidh to round off our final Skye Munros Course of the season. Conditions were, once again, excellent, with another (that's four in a row) dry and clear day, giving us excellent views all day. We couldn't have really asked for better weather over the past four days and, as a result, the waterproofs remained in our packs throughout.

We didn't see another soul out today. Well done to the team that enjoyed The Cuillins at their finest!

We'll still be offering scrambling and mountaineering trips on Skye on a privately guided basis, so please get in touch if you're interested in exploring the finest mountain range in the UK!










Breezy and dry on the Northern 3 Munros, Skye

For our third day of our Skye Munros Course, Tom, myself and our team made our way up to Bealach a' Bhasteir, from where we firstly made a quick ascent of Am Basteir, before tackling the airy West Ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean, which provided a healthy dose of exhilaration, as the teams weaved their way over the exposed pinnacles.

We bumped into a chap and his dog on the summit (they had come up the SE Ridge), beforeaking our way beneath the steep north face of Am Basteir and over to Bruach na Frithe, our third and final Munro of the day (and no. nine of the course). The weather remained dry all day and whilst it was breezy, it was far from being wild.


@AMIProfessionals








Another great day on Skye

For day two of our Skye Munros Course, Tom and I took a group back up to Coire Lagan, from where we headed up to Bealach Lagan and onto Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, before retracing our steps and cutting beneath An Stac and up to the In Pinn. The ascent of the In Pinn was brilliant, as always, made all the more better for having great views, dry rock and having it to ourselves.

To finish the day off, we traversed over to Sgurr na Banachdich. The skies were a bit overcast, with a chilly wind at times, but overall, we couldn't complain as it remained dry and settled.


@AMIProfessionals







4 Seasons in 1 day on Skye

Tom and I kicked off our final Skye Munros Course of the season today and found ourselves walking into Coir' a'Ghrunnda in the sunshine, with excellent views of the Small Isles and out to the Outer Hebrides.

First up was Sgurr Nan Eag, before cutting across to Sgurr Dubh Mor. Whilst en route to Sgurr Alasdair, we had a bit of rain, which soon turned into light snow. As we descended the Great Stone Chute, the snow turned back to rain, before completely clearing up again, so it really was a case of experiencing all four seasons throughout the course of the day.


@AMIProfessionals




Nice day on the Aonach Eagach, Glencoe

Today was our last open Aonach Eagach Traverse of the season and I was joined by Mhairi, Matt and Trish. We made the summit of Am Bodach in good time, but in doing so, walked up into the clouds. Fortunately, the clouds didn't linger for too long and the rock soon started drying out, giving us a very enjoyable day on the finest ridge scramble on the mainland.

For the whole team, it was their first experience of graded scrambling and they all did fantastically well and we were soon on the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and making a direct descent back down to Glen Coe.

Plenty of others making the most of a dryish day in the Scottish Highlands!

If you're interested in traversing the Aonach Eagach, we will still be offering it on a privately guided basis throughout the autumn.