Mountain Diary and Conditions

Welcome to the West Coast Mountain Guides diary and conditions page, which we will update regularly throughout the year.  During the winter, there will be plenty of up-to-date information and reports regarding the latest mixed and ice climbing and mountaineering conditions in the Scottish Highlands, and in particular, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in Glencoe.  We’ll also be posting accounts of our latest trips, both work and play. 

If you have any up-to-date conditions reports and photos that we can include in our blog, please drop us an email:
info@77.104.174.8


Sgurr Nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Alasdair in the sunshine!

That's more like it! After a couple of days of wet and breezy weather, Cameron, Andrew and I were finally able to enjoy the southern three Munros in the sunshine and with clear views in every direction! Needless to say, I'm pleased that Cameron and Andrew were able to leave Skye having seen the splendor of the Cuillin Ridge in all its glory, rather than 20m at a time!

Despite the amazing weather, we still didn't see many people on the ridge, although plenty were enjoying Coire Lagan and the road out of Glenbrittle was quite busy…

After these past three days, Cameron and Andrew have reached the summit of all 11 Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge and for Cameron, he's now down to his ultimate Munro; Ben More on Mull.







Sgurr Mhic Choinnich to Sgurr a'Mhadaidh

After a brilliant climbing holiday in the Val Di Mello and Cadarese in the Italian Alps, I'm back on Skye and out bagging Munros with father and son team; Cameron and Andrew.

Yesterday, we tackled the northern three; Sgurr Nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe, which we completed in good time. With Cameron only having the Skye Munros and Ben More on Mull left to go and only on Skye until Thuraday, we had a big day today and took in Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, The In Pinn, Sgurr na Banachdich, Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, giving us a total of 8 Munros in two days. Only the southern three to go tomorrow.

Conditions haven't been brilliant, with damp and windy conditions, so as ever, extra care was required as the rock was quite greasy in places.






The final 3 Munros on the Cuillin Ridge

Yesterday, our Skye Munros team completed the course by reaching the summits of their final 3 Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge; Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach Na Frithe.

The weather remained very changeable, with some clear spells, but overall, it was a bit on the damp and windy side, although we were well sheltered when on the northern flanks of the ridge.

Conditions have been quite tough at times this week, but it was clear that throughout the week that the whole team were hugely determined, so a big well done to them all.





Atmospheric day on the southern 3 Munros, Skye

Our Skye Munros Course, run by myself and Pete, were back at it again and this time at the southern end of the Cuillin Ridge, taking in Sgurr Nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Alasdair before descending the Great Stone Chute.

It was a day of mixed weather, with strong winds early in the day, light drizzle whilst we're on Sgurr Dubh Mor, dry, with fleeting views whilst on Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and sunshine on our walk out of Coire Lagan.

The drizzle wasn't enough to warrant waterproofs and conditions underfoot were largely dry.

That's 8 Munros down this week, 3 to go tomorrow.

Just a reminder that we still have spaces on our course running 10-13 September.






Windy day in the Black Cuillins on Skye

The most notable feature of today were the winds, which led us to changing plans and tackling the central Munros on the Cuillin Ridge; Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a'Mhadaidh.

With gusts of up to 50mph, it didn't make sense to head to the southern end. It turned out to be a pretty social day, with Dave A and Dave B, both fellow fully qualified Mountaineering and Climbing Instructors, out with their groups on the central Munros too.

The winds look to be with us through the night and hopefully easing tomorrow morning.

That's 5 of the 11 Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge down, six to go.

If you fancy a shot at all 11Munros, we have space on our course running 10-13 September.

http://51.38.64.114/…/guide-skye-cu…/





Raw day in the Cuillins, Skye

Pete and I kicked off day 1 of our Skye Munros Course by taking our group into Coire Lagan and up onto Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, before retracing our steps and heading up beneath Am Stac and over the In Pinn. We finished the day off by taking in Sgurr Na Banachdich and descendes back to the youth hostel in Glenbrittle via Coir' an Eich.

Generally, we would try to do this as our second day, but with stronger winds on the cards for tomorrow, it made sense to do it this way round.

It was quite a raw day, with a cold north-easterly wind making itself known for much of the day. We did get a bit of drizzle, but not enough to warrant waterproofs, thankfully!

3 Munros down, 8 to go!

If you fancy tackling all 11 Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge, we still have spaces on our course running 10-13 Sept, so please get in touch if you're interested!

http://51.38.64.114/…/guide-skye-cu…/






More unexpected good weather on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

Yet again, the weather turned out to be much better than expected whilst Jason, Mal, John and I climbed Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe today.

When I woke up, the weather was living up to the forecasts, with very heavy rain and thick cloud down to low levels, but it soon brightened up and soon after leaving the car, the waterproofs were stowed away. Whilst we had the odd bit of drizzle through the day, it wasn't enough to dig the waterproofs back out.

What this meant was that we enjoyed a largely dry ascent of Curved Ridge and then made the exposed traverse over to the foot of Crowberry Tower, which we climbed in two pitches before then making our way to the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor.

Jude also joined us today and was out observing, in preparation for her Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor assessment, which she has coming up later this season.






Much better than expected on Castle Ridge today

The weather today turned out to be much better than the forecasts suggested. Jason, Mal, John and I made an ascent of Castle Ridge on Ben Nevis, expecting the rains to arrive sometime late morning/early afternoon. Instead, we enjoyed a completely dry day, with the rains only starting at about 5pm.

Conditions on the route were excellent, with bone-dry rock. The summit was fairly busy with walkers, but there wasn't another soul on the north face of the mountain today. We continued our day by descending Ledge Route.









Clear and dry on the Aonach Eagach

Yesterday, I was working alongside Jamie on the final day of one of our 4 day Cuillin Munros Courses. We tackled the northern end; Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Bhasteir and Bruach na Frithe and managed to once again dodge much of the rain.

Today was a different story, as Jason, Mal and I enjoyed a dry and clear day on the Aonach Eagach in Glencoe. Conditions were pretty much perfect, with much of the rock being completely dry. Plenty of other teams making the most of the dry conditions. Good to also bump into Mike Pescod, who was running along the ridge in the opposite direction to us. It felt a bit more like June should today!

We have a few spaces left on our open Aonach Eagach trips (£99/person):
22 June
3rd August 2019
31st August 2019
14th September 2019

http://51.38.64.114/…/aonach-eagach…/








Beat the rain on Skye

Our Skye Munros team enjoyed another unexpectedly dry day on the Cuillin Ridge today. The forecasts were for rain, but fortunately that didn't arrive until we were down.

We tackled the southern three Munros; Sgurr Nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Alasdair, before descending the Great Stone Chute, which is in reasonable (relatively) good nick at the moment, with plenty of opportunities to descend decent scree, as opposed to mixed sized rocks and awkwardly hidden slabby boulders.

That brings our total to 8 Munros, with the northern three to go. Guess where we'll be tomorrow!

If you fancy tackling all 11 Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge, we have spaces on our 4 day course, running 10-13 September.

http://51.38.64.114/…/guide-skye-cu…/