Mountain Diary and Conditions

Welcome to the West Coast Mountain Guides diary and conditions page, which we will update regularly throughout the year.  During the winter, there will be plenty of up-to-date information and reports regarding the latest mixed and ice climbing and mountaineering conditions in the Scottish Highlands, and in particular, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in Glencoe.  We’ll also be posting accounts of our latest trips, both work and play. 

If you have any up-to-date conditions reports and photos that we can include in our blog, please drop us an email:
info@77.104.174.8

Not that bad: East Ridge of Beinn a'Chaorainn

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The forecasts for today were suggesting similar winds to yesterday, but cooler and drier conditions. After quite a bit of thought, I decided that Nick, Allan, Andy and I should seek shelter on the East Ridge of Beinn a'Chaorainn (with possible descent options of climbing back down the ridge or dropping into Coire na h-Uamha). When we have strong westerly winds, the ridge is on the leeward side of the mountain and is very well sheltered. We were buffeted a bit as we left the sanctuary of the woodland, but on gaining the ridge, the winds markedly dropped.

The ridge was in great condition, with plenty of useful snow and well-frozen turf. We took in all the grade II sections along the way and were soon at the summit of Beinn a'Chaorainn and as expected, in the brunt of the winds, which were strong and constant, but very manageable and so we descended the southern flank of the mountain.

The surface of the saturated snow had refrozen, creating an awkward icy crust, but considering the weather over the past 24 hours, the snowpack was quite reasonable and mostly firm enough to easily walk on.









Mixed weather: Western Rib, Aonach Mor

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Today, I was out with Nick, Andy and Allan, who I've been out with a number of times over the years. We decided that Western Rib on the west face of Aonach Mor would give us a good mountaineering day out. It also gave us a good deal of trail breaking to get round there! Fortunately, the snow was quite firm for the final 100m of ascent up to the base of the route.

The route is quite snowy at the moment and in good condition. There was very little bare rock visible for much of the route and some sharp crests of snow on some of the upper sections, all adding to the atmosphere.

The day started off quite clear, with great views across to Carn Mor Dearg and into Glen Nevis. By the time we topped out, the winds had picked up and the clouds had descended, so we didn't hang around on the summit. We were all pretty pleased to descend into the ski area to find plenty of skiers about and more importantly, the gondola still running!







Stob Ban – White Peak

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For Peter's final day, we decided to go for a journey and headed up Stob Ban, which translates as white peak, which it definitely is at the moment. We had a thaw last night and into the early hours of today, which stripped some of the lower-lying snow and saturated the snowpack to about 800m. Once this re-freezes, it will firm up well. Above 800m the snow was much drier and consolidating nicely.

We reached the summit via the mountain's east ridge, where we were treated to some brilliant views over towards Ben Nevis, the eastern Mamores and towards Glencoe.

After reaching the summit, we descended the north ridge, which features a brilliant section of exposed ridge, before descending rocky steps. Whilst descending, the weather closed in, bringing with it clouds and snow.

If you fancy being guided up some of the surrounding Munros in winter (or would like to learn the skills to enjoy the Munros in winter independently), please get in touch: http://51.38.64.114/mountain-guide-…/








A day of two halves: SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder

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Today started off very clear and crisp, with great views right up to the summits. There was a hint of red in the sky, adding to the ambience, but you know what they say… 'red sky in the morning, winter climbers' warning'.

Peter and I planned to be on our way out by the time the freezing level rose and the rains arrived, so we decided to go for the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder. Plenty of other teams attacking various other routes on the Douglas Boulder, but only Mat and Esther ahead of us on the SW Ridge.

The snow is starting to take axes in places and this current thaw-freeze cycle will help.

The great thing about the SW Ridge is that it involves a bit of everything, including an abseil descent down into the Douglas Gap, from where we walked down the East Gully, which is full of snow.

As expected, the winds picked up on our descent and the rain started. These mini-thaws are hugely helpful in consolidating the snow and forming the ice on Ben Nevis.

Not many other teams about, but The Curtain was climbed and looked to be in good nick.







Ice climbing on Fahrenheit 451, Beinn an Dothaidh

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It was nice to finally swing the tools into some decent (and not so decent) ice! Today, I was out with Peter and we decided to head to the Southern Highlands and to Creag Coire an Dothaidh. Plan A was Salamander Gully, but it was clear on the approach that yesterday's slight thaw, coupled with a short but sharp rise in temperatures overnight had softened the snow and ice on the shallower angled ground and the entry groove to Salamander Gully looked like it might just crumble away.

The ice on Fahrenheit 451 looked far more appealing and we found ourselves climbing that instead. The shallower angled sections of the route were less solid, but on the steeper ground, where it mattered, the ice was good. The route gave us 4 interesting pitches, all of which Peter took in his stride.

Nothing else in condition on either Creag Coire an Dothaidh or Creag an Socach for the time being.











Surprisingly quiet on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

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With such a good forecast, I was expecting the north face of Ben Nevis to be a bit busier than it was and didn't expect to be breaking trail up Tower Ridge.

I was out with Ant today, who had Tower Ridge on his bucket list. For fear of too much up-hill swimming up the snow-filled East Gully of the Douglas Boulder, we traversed in from slightly further up Observatory Gully.

The snow on the route was largely unhelpful, although there was a bit of useful ice and consolidated snow here and there. The Little Tower is getting quite buried, but the Leaning Block Chimney is still a chimney, just.

Ant did well to keep going, particularly from beyond the gap, where the snow was much harder packed, making the final stretch hard work. The exit gully, by comparison, was good, firm snow-ice and a joy to climb! We popped over to the summit, and now Ant can tick Ben Nevis via Tower Ridge off his bucket list.

It was a brilliant day to be out, with some excellent vistas from the summit. Teams on Castle Ridge, Ledge Route, around Pigotts (Anubis?!), Tower Face of the Comb and a team retreating from a very snowy Comb Gully.

The ice is proving to be reluctant to form this season… There are substantial streaks around Compression Crack, Boomer's Requiem, Gemini/Waterfall Gully, the Curtain (complete but possibly a bit thin) and licks on the lower pitches of Diana/Tramp. The lower pitches of Point Five look good, but I suspect the upper pitches will be full of unconsolidated snow. No ice worthy of note on Indicator Wall, Observatory Buttress, Hadrians, Orion or Minus Faces and only a little on Smiths. We should see some useful thaw/freeze cycles over the next week. Fingers crossed!















Introduction to Winter Climbing – Day 4

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For the fourth day of our Introduction to Winter Climbing Course, we visited Stob Coire nan Lochan, where we climbed Dorsal Arete. Ollie and Simon led a pitch each before Ollie M took them up the trickier sections.

It was a stunning (and cold) day to be out in the Highlands, with clear views as far as the Cuillins and Knoydart. The Aonach Eagach looked particularly spectacular today.

Very quiet in the corrie, with teams on Ordinary Route on Summit Buttress and Central Grooves, as well as a couple of other teams on Dorsal Arete.

We have one space left on our 5 day Introduction to Winter Climbing Course 11-15 March. For more info, visit: http://51.38.64.114/…/winter-climbi…/.











Introduction to Winter Climbing – Day 3

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After a brilliant day working on rope management, belays and abseils on the Zig-Zags in Glencoe yesterday, Oliver M, Ollie, Simon and myself went to Stob Ban in Glen Nevis, where we climbed the East Ridge of the North Buttress. for Ollie and Simon, this bumped up the technical challenge a notch and gave them their first taste of using two technical axes. Ollie M also had the pair belaying one another both from above and below, allowing them the opportunity to get a feeling for what alternate leading as a pair would feel like.

Ahead of us were Hannah and Rob, who made the most of the tracks we put in on the approach, before jumping ahead on the route, but not without thanking us first for our efforts!

We have a space on our 5 Day Introduction to Winter Climbing Course running 11-15 March, so get in touch if you would like more info: http://51.38.64.114/…/winter-climbi…/





Introduction to Winter Climbing Course – Day 1

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I was back on the west face of Aonach Mor today, this time with Ollie M, Simon and Ollie. Simon and Ollie are on our Introduction to Winter Climbing Course and Ollie M is a trainee MIC (Mountaineering Instructor Certificate), who is running the show this week, with me providing coaching as Ollie M has his MIC Assessment later this season. A qualified Mountaineering Instructor Certificate will have been assessed to deliver winter mountaineering and climbing in the UK and in order to be at the required standard for assessment, it's highly recommended that trainees get as much real experience as possible.

We decided to make the most of the great weather first thing this morning and made an ascent of one of the best grade IIs in the UK; Golden Oldie, which was very different to last Friday, when I was last up it.

Simon and Ollie climbed well and along the way, we looked at various belays and basic rope work. As we neared the top, the weather closed in, with a noticeable increase in winds and snow being transported to the east as a result. This gave Simon and Ollie a good cross-section of Scottish winter weather, minus the thaws, which is fine by me!







Much nicer than expected: Western Rib, Aonach Mor

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You couldn't have asked for two more contrasting days this weekend. Yesterday, it was raining well above the summits and much of the snow had been washed away. Today, deep drifts of fresh snow and cold temperatures.

I first met Callum in the Indian Himalayas back in 2001, where we climbed Stok Kangri together. We lost touch, but he contacted West Coast Mountain Guides, unaware that I was now running it, so 18 years later, we found ourselves back in the mountains together.

With windy and wet weather yesterday, we climbed Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower, which felt like a good option. It certainly wasn't a day for hanging about!

Today, I was expecting strong winds first thing, but it felt remarkably settled, so we took the climber's gondola up at Aonach Mor and waded through plenty of fresh snow round to the West Face of Aonach Mor, where we climbed Western Rib. The overnight northwesterly winds had done a great job at refreezing the ground and riming up the rocks. On the upper ridge, we also encountered quite a bit of wind-blown snow on the leeward side.

It was great to spend a couple of days with Callum, and hopefully not another 18 years until we climb again together!