Mountain Diary and Conditions

Welcome to the West Coast Mountain Guides diary and conditions page, which we will update regularly throughout the year.  During the winter, there will be plenty of up-to-date information and reports regarding the latest mixed and ice climbing and mountaineering conditions in the Scottish Highlands, and in particular, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in Glencoe.  We’ll also be posting accounts of our latest trips, both work and play. 

If you have any up-to-date conditions reports and photos that we can include in our blog, please drop us an email:
info@77.104.174.8


Sheltered on Ledge Route, Ben Nevis

Back on Ben Nevis today, this time with Chris, Andy and John. We experienced a few strong gusts whilst walking up to the north face of Ben Nevis this morning, but fortunately, once tucked in beneath North Trident Buttress, we were well sheltered from the prevailing winds.

The route proved to be no problem for Chris, Andy and John, and we made good progress up it. Needless to say, it was quite damp underfoot! On reaching the summit of Carn Dearg, we were exposed to the full force of the winds, which remained with us as we headed over to the summit of Ben Nevis.

Despite the conditions, plenty of people battling their way to the summit via the mountain path.




Vratsa, Bulgaria & The Aonach Eagach

I'm recently back from a climbing trip to Vratsa in Bulgaria, which was nothing short of fantastic. The weather was perfect, climbing was very varied and super accessible (5 mins drive from the town of Vratsa) and the food and drink very cheap. There's a reasonable guidebook available, which contains everything from single pitch bolted routes right through to big trad adventures. The area isn't particularly huge, but there's plenty for a week or so, and it makes a nice change from heading to Spain at this time of year.

Back in Scotland, I was out with Eileen along the Aonach Eagach in Glencoe today. The weather was great all day, and the rock reasonably dry, giving us an enjoyable day out.

Now, Eileen is in her very early 70s, and whereas many people her age are taking things easy, Eileen, in her own words, is addicted to being in the mountains and despite having taken hillwalking up fairly recently, has racked up a fair few Munros, Corbetts and Grahams, and can now add the Aonach Eagach, her first serious scramble, to the list. I'm forever inspired by people like her, who are proof that age is simply a figure and that if you're dedicated and motivated enough, you can stay fit and healthy, and continue to seek new challenges in the mountains whilst well into retirement.

2019 dates for our open Aonach Eagach Courses (£99/person) are:
18th May 2019
1st June 2019
15th June 2019
13th July 2019
3rd August 2019
31st August 2019
14th September 2019

If you would like more info, head over to:
http://51.38.64.114/…/aonach-eagach…/




Beat the weather on Am Bastier and Sgurr Nan Gillean

I was out with Jean and Hilda today, and today’s plan was to tackle their final two technical Munros (or final two Munros in Hilda’s case) on Skye; Am Bastier and Sgurr nan Gillean.

We made an early start, so as to avoid the worst of the…

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Liathach Tops & Winter Courses

I was back out chasing Carole around the North West Highlands today, this time, we were bagging the two Munros and six Munro Tops (and deleted Tops) on Liathach.

It started off as a rather murky day as we made the steep climb up to the first Munro; Mullach an Rathain. From here, we ventured off-piste, and descended the Northern Pinnacles, to grab the Munro Top of Meall Dearg. This lesser travelled route feels quite serious, with quite a bit of loose, damp rock, so we took it slowly and took plenty of care in both descent and ascent. Having climbed it in winter, I can definitely say it’s a more enjoyable outing when well frozen!

Once back on the main ridge, we were able to move a bit quicker over the remaining Tops, and took in the Am Fasarinen Pinnacles. It was great to reach the final Top; Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig, our 17th top of the two days.

Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd

Speaking of winter, our winter course dates for 2018-19 are now up on-line, so if you fancy learning winter hill walking skills, tackling a snowy mountaineering ridge or be guided up a classic ice climb on Ben Nevis, head over to: http://51.38.64.114/winter-courses/

Curved Ridge & An Teallach Tops

Two things that I really enjoy about the work I do is meeting great people, and taking them on real adventures. The past two days have had both in abundance.

Yesterday, Andy and I took Kathryn, Tracy and their teenage kids; Noah (11), Sophie (13) and Neive (12) up Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor. The weather played ball, and the two teams flew up the best scramble of its grade in the UK. Its hugely inspiring to see such young mountaineers really getting stuck in, whilst laughing and joking all the way up (and back down). They’ve certainly got very bright mountaineering careers ahead of them!

Today, I was up in the magnificent NW Highlands, guiding Carole on An Teallach. Carole didn’t just want to bag the Munros, but the Tops as well, the total of which is ten summits. The topography of An Teallach meant that we had three major diversions from the main ridge, but fortunately, Carole is as fit as a butcher’s dog, and we completed the day, in less than ideal weather, in just over 9 hours.

Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd

 

Showers && sunshine on Sgurr na Banachdich and the In Pinn

The mixed weather in the Highlands continue, but with the promise of the clouds clearing and weather improving at around midday, Michelle, Katie and myself reached the summits of Sgurr na Banachdich and the In Pinn on the Isle of Skye today.

Our damp and blustery ascent of Sgurr na Banachdich, the first Skye Munro for both Michelle and Katie, was as much to reach the summit as it was to delay our ascent of the In Pinn by a couple of hours! This worked out well, as the skies started to clear and winds eased as we were making our way up the north western flanks of Sgurr Dearg. As we made our way to the foot of the In Pinn, we were greeted with sunshine and blue skies, which whilst didn't last for long, gave us an enjoyable ascent of the In Pinn and brilliant views to both ends of the Cuillin Ridge.

A huge well done to both Michelle and Katie for sticking with it today, and for tackling the most technical of all the Munros!


Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd

Snowy on Tower Ridge today

Paul and I made a rather wintry ascent of Tower Ridge today. With a couple of fairly strong gusts whilst walking up towards the CIC Hut this morning, I must admit, I had my fingers crossed that the weather would do as the forecasts predicted, which was for the winds to ease off from late morning. Thankfully they did, but the weather didn't ease off before it had put down a good dusting of snow above 1100m, up to 4 inches in sheltered spots.

That said, the snow was all very cosmetic and didn't affect much of the scrambling on Tower Ridge. If anything, it added a greater sense of wilderness and adventure to the proceedings. Paul, who has already completed all bar 16 Munros, took Tower Ridge in his stride, and we were soon on the snow-covered plateau. After popping over to the summit, we made our way back down Ledge Route, rounding off a brilliant day of mountaineering on Ben Nevis.

The snow patches beneath Point Five Gully and Gardyloo Gully are still holding on, but only just.


Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd

North East Buttress, Ben Nevis

Today, Paul and I tackled one of Ben Nevis' great mountaineering routes; North East Buttress. North East Buttress is the most striking feature when walking up the Allt a' Mhuilinn, and is a hugely popular winter climb. It sees far less traffic during the summer months, but still give's an excellent day out. When damp, the rock is quite slippery, so a bit more traffic outwith the winter, to clean the rock up, wouldn't go amiss!

From the initial traverse to gain the crest, to topping out on the plateau, the route doesn't let up, with plenty of interest and tricky moves throughout, however, the crux section, the Man Trap and Forty Foot Corner are both significantly harder than anything else, and come right at the top of the route.

Whilst the weather was largely dry, the rock was still fairly damp, and both Paul and I had to climb quite carefully, particularly with regards to foot placements.

The weather closed in a bit as we reached the summit of Ben Nevis, and we made a quick descent via Coire Leis.
A few teams on Castle Ridge, Ledge Route and the CMD Arête today.


Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd

Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, The In Pinn and Sgurr na Banachdich

More Munro bagging action on the main Cuillin Ridge for our Skye Munros Course today. With today's forecast being the best of the week, we tackled Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, The In Pinn and Sgurr na Banachdich.

The day started off clear, with some great views out to Rum and Canna, as we made our way up to Coire Lagan. This soon changed as we were hit with a sharp shower of hail and rain, but thereafter, we had very little in the way of precipitation. The winds, whilst fresh and chilly, didn't impact our day in the slightest.

After a damp ascent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, The rock dried up nicely in time for our ascent of the In Pinn. It never ceases to amaze me at how wild the situation is when climbing the East Ridge of the In Pinn, so as ever, a huge well done to our team for getting up and down it. There were plenty of smiles on the summit!

From here, it was a quick journey over to our eighth Munro of the week; Sgurr Na Banachdich, before we descended back down to Glen Brittle.


Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd

Dodging the winds on Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Mhadaidh

With the winds due to pick up at 1pm, Adele and I decided to take our Skye Munros team up to An Dorus, from where we nipped up Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a'Mhadaidh.

These two Munros are very close together, and only involve a short section of steep scrambling out of An Dorus. There is still plenty of scrambling on both peaks, but it's not particularly steep, and providing that the correct line is taken, not too difficult either.

We experienced some squally showers, along with a bit of hail, but overall, the day was much drier than yesterday. The winds picked up as expected, but by then, we were on our way down. That's five of the Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge done, six to go. These courses are run in conjunction with Steven Fallon Mountain Guiding.


Kayland
Troll Outdoors Ltd