Welcome to the West Coast Mountain Guides diary and conditions page, which we will update regularly throughout the year. During the winter, there will be plenty of up-to-date information and reports regarding the latest mixed and ice climbing and mountaineering conditions in the Scottish Highlands, and in particular, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in Glencoe. We’ll also be posting accounts of our latest trips, both work and play.
If you have any up-to-date conditions reports and photos that we can include in our blog, please drop us an email:
info@77.104.174.8
This is where Hannah and I decided to visit today, Stob Coire an Loaigh, a new venue for both of us. The walk-in is long, but fortunately, with the turf frozen, and snow somewhat consolidated, it was far easier than it could have been. Amazingly, we did see two other people, as we were approaching the crag, but they were walking up to Caisteal.
There’s no opportunity for a warm up on Taliballan, as the first pitch is the crux, but it’s a fairly short lived affair (a short, steep groove with spaced footholds). I’m not sure that the other two pitches were any less cruxy really, as the climbing was pretty sustained and good fun throughout, with just enough gear where needed.
The turf was fully frozen, the cracks reasonably clear of ice, and the crags well rimed, so I’m not sure that we could have found it to be in better condition. I’ll let the photos do the rest of the talking.
Meanwhile Hannah and Lena were enjoying a personal climbing day on North Buttress; Buachaille Etive Mor. Given it is a chimney climb, they were fairly sheltered from the wind until the easier ground near the top. She reported the main climbing to be in great nick and although it is a popular route they only shared it with one other team who turned out to be friends of theirs, so a social and successful day for them. The photos relay a more ‘Scottish’ scene in Glencoe….
Further along Glencoe, Simon, Dave and Steve took a steady walk up to SCNL and climbed the brilliant Dorsal Arete with only one team for company. Conditions are great at the moment with neve starting to form and the compressed snow from passing climbers holding axes well. There is a lot of snow being transported around the mountains on the strong winds.
Meanwhile Ken was out on a little mission himself who was guiding Will who sought out an adventure. They headed up and over Am Bodach in Glencoe, where they climbed the mountain’s rarely climbed north ridge. The climbing today was quite tricky due to the snow covering compact, slabby rock. It’s supposedly a bit easier in leaner conditions, when the patches of turf can be more easily used for axe and foot placements. That all said, it was a good adventure, and great to explore somewhere new. Plenty of teams heading off to traverse the Aonach Eagach, which will be in brilliant condition at the moment.
Dave was out with Neil, and they climbed Curved Ridge, which again, is in pristine nick. Meanwhile Hannah was out leading Ben and Tim up the mountain path on Ben Nevis.
Steve was out with Anne, Nick, Mark and Brendon. They made an ascent of the North East Ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan, followed by a decent of Broad Gully. They reported plenty of teams climbing in the corrie, including 15 people on Dorsal Arete and a couple of teams on Twisting Gully and Raeburn’s Route.
Dave had a fantastic final day with Killian and Brian. They finished their 3 days with the Glencoe Classic, Curved Ridge. After all the recent traffic on there, the route is in good condition, with a good track and useful, compressed snow.
Finally, Matt had his team leading on School House Ridge.
Long may these conditions continue!
If you fancy tackling one of Glencoe’s classic ridges, get in touch or head over to: http://51.38.64.114/winter-courses/
Ken was out on School House Ridge where he reported improving conditions. The strong easterly winds were transporting a lot of loose snow and forming cornices and windslab on NW-SW aspects.
Dave and Matt climbed Dorsal Arete with their respective teams, Dave commented on allot of wading but had a great day nonetheless.
Finally, other Dave was out with Tom. They made the fourth West Coast Mountain Guides ascent of the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis on three days. He reported a fair bit of swimming en route.
We still have space on some of our set winter courses this season.
http://51.38.64.114/winter-courses/
Ken and Andy (who was instructing Culann and Conor) both had a super day on Ben Nevis with their respective teams. They both went for the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder which Ken said was a great way to round off his three days with Dave and Jay….. ‘With the drop in temperature, the snow on the route was beginning to consolidate well, however, it’s pretty clear that the ice is struggling to form up high, as the freezing level has remained below the summits for sometime. Overall, a great three days for Dave and Jay, who have both enjoyed turning their hands and tools to mixed winter climbing….’
Matt climbed the Zig Zags in Glencoe with Philip and Cathal then continued on to make the classic round of SCNL. Whilst Dave was teaching Killan and Brian some advance skills on school house ridge above Ballachulish.
Ken: I was back out with Dave and Jay today and we headed round to the Summit Ribs on the West Face of Aonach Mor, where we climbed the brilliant Western Rib, which must be one of the longest grade IIIs around. The freezing level had creeped up a bit yesterday afternoon and overnight, and as a result the snow on the approach and on the lower pitches was quite wet, whereas the snow on the upper half of the route, of which there is quite a bit, is still fairly dry and unconsolidated (and the scree still loose where exposed).
Meanwhile, Steve was out with Leanne and Jon on the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder, on Ben Nevis. Again, the theme of plenty of unhelpful snow was ever present. This made the climbing a bit tricky at times, as hooks and gear all needed to be excavated. That all said, the team enjoyed themselves and had fun abseiling down the East Ridge of the Douglas Boulder.
The drop in the freezing level tomorrow should help firm things up a bit, particularly lower down.
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