Mountain Diary and Conditions

Welcome to the West Coast Mountain Guides diary and conditions page, which we will update regularly throughout the year.  During the winter, there will be plenty of up-to-date information and reports regarding the latest mixed and ice climbing and mountaineering conditions in the Scottish Highlands, and in particular, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in Glencoe.  We’ll also be posting accounts of our latest trips, both work and play. 

If you have any up-to-date conditions reports and photos that we can include in our blog, please drop us an email:
info@77.104.174.8


Season opener: Hobgoblin and Hanging Garden, Ben Nevis

Ken: Caspar and I made the most of a settled and wintry day by heading high on Ben Nevis to climb on No. 3 Gully Buttress. We settled on Hobgoblin and finished up Hanging Garden giving a brilliant and sustained climb. One abseil from the top saw us back in No. 3 Gully. Loving my new 4001 boots!

Conditions were nothing short of excellent for this time of year, with plenty of snow and cracks largely free of verglass. The snow is starting to build quite nicely, long may this continue!

A few others were also making the most of today, with ascents of Soiux Wall, Apache, Gargoyle Wall and Slab Climb.







As good as it gets in the Cuillin Hills, Skye

Ken: For Marco and Mary's final day we finished off their remaining Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge. We started by ascending Bomber Alley and traversing the famous and exposed Collie's Ledge before ticking off Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. From there, to keep the level of adventure high, we stayed on the crest of An Stac, giving some of the best scrambling on the entire ridge.

This brought us at the foot of the In Pinn which they both climbed with not a second thought. From here, we blasted over Sgurr na Banachdich before tacking Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and finished off with the fifth and final Munro of the day, Sgurr a'Mhadaidh.

The day was nothing short of spectacular in every single way. The weather and views were incredible! The rock was almost all bone dry, except for condensation which had form on the sheltered and shaded spot as the afternoon wore on.

Long may this amazing autumnal weather continue!









It's that time of the year again! Ledge Route, Ben Nevis

Ken: It seems like only yesterday that we were running our second CIC Hut Week on Ben Nevis, climbing some of the best ice routes in the UK, moments before the world was turned upside down.

Bereket, originally from Ethiopia, has just completed the West Highland Way and was interested in bolting on an ascent of Ben Nevis to round his trip off. Luckily, he was easily convinced to give Ledge Route a go! There's an amazing amount of snow down to about 1100m, but all very soft, as the freezing level had risen well over the summits overnight.

We made quick time up Ledge Route and then enjoyed wandering over the plateau to the summit, having a look down the gullies, whrte the greatest accumulations of snow were. I wouldn't start digging out your crampons and axes out just yet as the snow is all very superficial!

Plenty of people on the Mountain Path.





















Lovely autumnal day on the Aonach Eagach, Glencoe

Today was a perfect autumnal day in Glencoe, with a few clouds swirling revealing blue skies, cool temperatures in the shade yet warm in the sunshine, dry(ish) rock and stags roaring in the glens. I was out on the Aonach Eagach with Gavin and we…

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8 Munros down, 3 left to go on the Cuillin Ridge, Skye

Ken: This week sees us running our final 4 day Skye Munros Course of the season and we’re on track to summit all 11 Munros along the ridge, with Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe left to go.

It has felt quite autumnal this week,…

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Great day on North Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor

Every time I climb North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor, I’m reminded just how good it is and how sustained and adventurous the terrain is. The scrambling starts low down on the mountain, taking you up to a series of brilliant chimneys stacked on…

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Lovely autumnal day on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

Ken: Back on home turf today. I was out with Phil, who has been chomping at the bit to climb more classic mountaineering routes in Scotland since he was last up on Skye with me last year. The weather gods were on our side today and granted us a cool but…

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3 more Munros on the Cuillin Ridge, Skye

Today, Dave and I took our intrepid team to the southern end of the Black Cuillin where we reached the summits of Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Alasdair, before descending the Great Stone Chute.

The weather was once again very kind to us, with dry…

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5 Skye Munros bagged, making up for yesterday!

Ken: Yesterday was supposed to see the start of our penultimate 4 day Skye Munros course of the season, but the weather had other ideas and so with torrential rain and howling winds, we decided to not even try. At least it gave us a bit of time to come…

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Welcome to the Team.

It’s great that despite the late start to the year there are newly certified Mountaineering and Climbing Instructors entering the profession and none more qualified to work on the Cuillin than Anna Wells.

www.WestCoast-MountainGuides.co.uk


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