Dave: Today was my first day with Nick Gardner and it was a pleasure, unfortunately the forecast was against us, but Nick said he was keen for a 6am start as he was sleeping in car anyway. We made quick progress up Am Bodach sub 2 hours, we then tied in and remained on the rope throughout the scrambling to the summit of Stob Coire Leith, we were on the final Munro Sgorr Nam Fiannaidh in under 3 hours from Am Bodach. We returned to the previous col and descended to the Glen, unfortunately it started raining for the last 30min of the descent, but it was a mainly dry morning, 6 hours car to car, not bad for 82!

Me and Nick have a few more Munro’s to do together so watch this space for more. I have added some links below for Nicks Just Giving Page, Instagram and a great read of his story.

We have 1 space available on an Aonach Eagach trip 18th of June.

https://www.justgiving.com/team/nicks-munro-challenge
@nicks.munro.challenge
https://www.heraldscotland.com/news/19314830.pensioner-nick-gardner-takes-three-peaks-challenge-tribute-ill-wife/

Dave: Over the last three days I have had the pleasure and privilege of facilitating 2 days of training for members of on the Inaccessible Pinnacle and a day with some of the West Coast Mountain Guides team.

Congestion on the Inaccessible Pinnacle is not a new thing but over recent seasons it is something members of the Ass have been aware of and in discussion on good practise and tactics to work efficiently on the peak. It was great to hear everyone sharing experiences and discussing their practises on the classic East Ridge route, we also looked at alternative ways of descending from the Pinnacle and alternative climbing routes. The short side of the Pin is a difficult and steep climb but a great way of avoiding queues, South Crack is by far the best way, a beautiful 35m slabby groove and crack on the sunny side, both can be done by beginner climbers who have had some indoor experience.

For the team West Coast Mountain Guides day I wanted to cover some different ground to what other workshops had been using, so we opted to head into the rarely travelled Coire Mhadaidh accessing the ridge via the upper rake. We then headed North traversing 3 tops of Mhadaidh, Bidein Druim nan Rahm and An Caisteal. It was great to be on a quiet section of ridge with so many competent people exploring alternative options and sharing so much knowledge of their preferred routes and means of securing the safety of their guests.

We have availability on our Cuillin Munros Courses 27th to 30th of May, 4th to 7th July, 29th of July to 1st of August and 2nd to 5th of September.

We also have lots of availability this summer for Private Rock Guiding on Skye, Cuillin Ridge Traverses and ascents of the Inaccessible Pinnacle.

www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk

Grivel
2pure

Dave: Great conditions on Tower Ridge today, after the snow approach we had dry rock with no crampons or ice axes needed until two steps below the Eastern Traverse, the thin slithers of snow in the corners and grooves up to the traverse gave great placements and easy climbing. The traverse was easy on firm snow with some grass showing through, the chockstone is filled and beyond this lies dry rock making an easy climb onto the great tower. The Gap is almost all dry rock and crampons probably made it harder but shortly after the gap firm snow led to the summit. Adam and I made quick work on the descent of red burn or at least it felt quick as the conversation flowed from summit to car park, brilliant last day in crampons.

Grivel
2pure

Ken: This past week, it has felt like winter is drawing to a close. The sun has been shining, the freezing levels have remained above the summits and the mountains have suddenly become much quieter.
But, you never quite know what’s around the next corner and there are signs that it will cool down next week. Will it be enough to prolong the season, so that we can enjoy ice climbing well into April?

Today, I was out with Dan and climbed North East Buttress, which is still just about wintry. There is still some good ice on some of the pitches, but equally, some of the pitches are a bit soft. The Man Trap was dry, whereas the 40 Foot Corner was still quite icy, although starting to get a bit thin.

Other teams on Tower Ridge and Ledge Route. A few sizeable avalanches cam down from Point 5 Gully and Raeburn’s Easy Route. Best to stick to the ridges for the time being!

I’ve also enjoyed a few days of rock climbing and thoughts are now turning to spring and summer work, both in Lochaber and on the Isle of Skye. We have some availability on the following courses and trips in May and June:

06-09 May, Skye Munros, 4 Days, £649, 1 SPACE AVAILABLE
14 May, Aonach Eagach, 1 Day, £149, SPACES AVAILABLE
21 May, Aonach Eagach, 1 Day, £149, SPACES AVAILABLE
27-30 May, Skye Munros, 4 Days, £649, 1 SPACE AVAILABLE
13-16 June, Skye Munros, 4 Days, £649, SPACES AVAILABLE
18 June, Aonach Eagach, 1 Day, £149, SPACES AVAILABLE

All the above trips are on a ratio of 1 instructor to 2 participants, in order to maximise safety and enjoyment.

For further info:
http://51.38.64.114/courses/climb-the-skye-cuillin-munros/

http://51.38.64.114/courses/aonach-eagach-guide/

We also have plenty of availability for Cuillin Ridge Traverses and Private Guiding on Skye and in Lochaber.

Mountain Hardwear
2pure

Dave: March really is the best month, longer day light hours and fatter ice. The last two weeks have been some of best guiding I have done. Last week at the CIC hut during some settled weather I climbed with 2 brilliant guests Ken and Dave, together we climbed 5 days and 4 routes I had not done before. The highlights were Orion and Cresta Direct.
This last week I have had the pleasure of climbing with David and Mark on an Advanced winter climbing course. Great weather at the start of the week meant we got straight on Crowberry Gully and an early start got us lead position, the windy days had us climbing mid level ice around the Ciste and Observatory Gully. The highlights were Tower Ridge and Crowberry Gully.

2pure
Grivel