The last few days Dave has been out introducing Tom, Suzie and Neil to the delig

The last few days Dave has been out introducing Tom, Suzie and Neil to the delights of Scottish Winter Mountaineering and the Ice Factor. We visited Stob Corrie nan Lochan and descended broad gully, covered more than a normal mountaineering course at the Ice Factor during the worst of the weather and on our last day we braved the conditions and headed to the East Ridge of Beinn A’Chaorainn.
We didn’t complete the ridge possibly due to Dave’s lack of confidence in the snow rubbing off on the gang but also the image of many people on the ridge in poor weather reminded them of the queue up Everest last year, it was not the place or the weather to be held up yesterday.









Today Dave was out teaching Euan and Fiona the magic of winter leading and shari

Today Dave was out teaching Euan and Fiona the magic of winter leading and sharing our passion for the Scottish mountains.

The biggest risk today was the amount of teams all heading to the same location, Dorsal Arete, we arrived first stayed on the harder line and kept out of all the ropes charging for the top.






More snow everywhere, even The Cuillin.

With more snow overnight and high winds forecast for after midday, we decided to stay low with vis and climbed the Spur on Sgurr An Fheadain. This great route is under graded at I and is easily a II, with many tricky sections.

The crux of the day is the snow, and traveling safely, fortunately this route has a few descent options. With Seonaid MacDonald & Ian at the Skye Winter Festival








No hills like these hills, the Cuillin range.

Today we've been exploring the amphitheatre of the North Coire of Sgurr a Mhadiadh on the Isle of Skye.

Unfortunately the wind and poorly bonded snow ment we didn't explore the upper rake onto the summit. But we now have a better idea of conditions for tomorrow, It's always worth planning in an orientation day when visiting somewhere to get an idea of conditions.

Great to be hear part of Skye Winter Festival which is a brillaint event put on by the Skye Guru Mike Lates.









Winter returns – Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

The thaw from last week hasn't left us with many route options, so for Neil and James' second day, we decided to go for Tower Ridge, a route that can be climbed in almost any condition and is always good fun. As we walked in this morning, there was a slight dusting of fresh snow down to about 1000m and as the day progressed, things became whiter and whiter.

Whereas last week, we didn't put crampons on until the start of the Eastern Traverse, today, we donned them from the start. We made steady progress up the ridge and soon found ourselves on the summit plateau, from where we descended the Red Burn. Amazingly, it's possible to pretty much stay on good snow all the way to where the burn crosses the main mountain path.

The week ahead is looking quite wintry, with quite a bit of snow due over the next few days.

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Freezing above 1100m on Ben Nevis

I was back on Ben Nevis today, this time with Neil and James and we climbed No. 3 Gully Buttress, which despite the thaw, was holding on to snow and ice quite well. The first pitch still has a short step of ice, just watch out for the bergshrund at the foot of it.

The freezing level was at about 1100m and the rocks from the base of the route upwards were covered with verglas and starting to rime up towards the top. The snow on the route was also firming up quite quickly. The crux and subsequent steps are quite bare in places, but well frozen and this will change as we see snow coming through early tomorrow morning.

We descended No. 4 Gully, which was still quite friendly, although, again, starting to firm up towards the top. Plenty of other teams heading up to No. 2 Gully. The first pitch of Green Gully has gone, but should reform fairly quickly and I think that routes like Thomson's and the Central Gullies on Creag Coire na Ciste will also come back in fairly quickly.





Still quite a bit of snow on North East Buttress, Ben Nevis

For Peter's final day, we enjoyed our third day of adventures on Ben Nevis and this time, rattled up North East Buttress. Despite the thaw, there was still quite a bit of snow on the easier angled sections and we opted to wear crampons from the start. There was also still quite a bit of frozen vegetation and there was even a bit of verglass on the rocks and vegetation in the upper reaches.

We descended via Coire Leis, which gave an excellent descent, entirely on snow, right back to the foot of the First Platform. There is still ice holding on on the Little Brenva face, so when the temperatures drop, these routes will come back in pretty quickly.

So, that wraps up three days with Peter and despite the conditions, we've had three brilliant days exploring Ben Nevis and despite the current conditions, have managed to squeeze in some good climbing and have given Peter a good flavour of what Ben Nevis is all about.










Thompson's, Tower Ridge and top pitch of Indicator Wall

With a bit of a thaw in progress, picking have been a bit slim over the past couple of days, but there are still some excellent adventures to be had, particularly on Ben Nevis.

I've been out with Peter, who has come over from the Netherlands to get stuck into a bit of Scottish winter climbing, so to kick things off, we made an ascent of Thompson's Route yesterday, which was quite lean but frozen enough to give solid axe and crampon placements. We finished off by continuing up the direct finish to No. 3 Gully Buttress and descended the Red Burn, which is in excellent condition at the moment.

Today, we climbed Tower Ridge, which was in 'alpine nick', with quite a bit of bare rock. We put on crampons at the start of the Eastern Traverse, where the snow was noticeably firmer and kept them on for the rest of the ridge. We reached the summit in good time, so went over to the exit of Indicator Wall, where I lowered Peter down a pitch, so he could climb a bit of steeper ice (which we had spied earlier in the day). We then swapped over so I could also climb the ice pitch, which gave a nice 15-20m of grade IV. We then descended No. 4 Gully, which is cornice free and would give an excellent bum-slide! We were very lucky to be above the cloud inversion that Fort William was sitting in.

In terms of conditions, Point 5, Smith's Route and Green Gully will all come into condition fairly quickly once the temperatures drop, which they will this weekend. Hadrian's Wall is a bit too broken and will take a wee while. The main pitches of Indicator Wall are getting there. There is a good amount of snow about, so still everything to play for this season!

















Disco Corner, Mullach nan Coirean

I had a day off today, but wanting to make the most of the current conditions and also wanting to explore something off the beaten track, James and I had a quick hit on the North Face of Mullach nan Coirean in the Mamores, where after a quick look at the crag, we decided on Disco Corner, a short route on the left-hand side of the crag.

The route starts up Captain Caveman, before peeling off left and continues up a series of short corners and ramps, offering some short, steep steps. Unfortunately, the snow, as many others have found over the weekend, was next to useless for axes, so a bit of care and thought was required along the way.

I think with a few more freeze-thaw cycles, the crag would be well worth a visit, but for the time being, I wouldn't rush up there in a hurry! Nice to explore somewhere new though and the views to the south and funky cloud formations helped make it all worthwhile.











Ken was out in South Gully on Stob Ban today teaching, and wishing he had his sk

Ken was out in South Gully on Stob Ban today teaching, and wishing he had his skis to get back down.

After posting this on British Backcountry there might be a few people dropping in and shredding the snow tomorrow.



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