Located halfway between Oslo and Bergan, Hemsedal offers some of the best ice climbing in Norway, with a large range of climbs, from short and very accessible single pitch venues through to long, adventurous multi-pitch waterfalls and everything in between. To quote Will Gadd, the famous American ice climber, ‘I thought Hemsedal was a ski area with some ice climbing more than what it really is, an ice climbing area with some skiing’.
The course is ideal for anyone with previous winter climbing or mountaineering experience as we’ll be mainly operating at (Scottish) grade III-V. For the duration of the course, we’ll be based in a self-catering alpine chalet, located between Hemsedal and Gol, giving us short drives to reach the majority of venues.
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Join us for an unforgettable ice climbing adventure in Rjukan, Norway. Discover reliable ice conditions and an abundance of icefalls that attract climbers from around the world.
Course Outline:
For more information and bookings, please contact us.
Due to the high number of icefalls, reliable conditions and ease of access, the ice climbing in Norway is world-famous and it draws in climbers from all over the world. Back in the 1970s, Hemsedal was the birth-place of ice climbing in Norway and is continually being developed to this day. The area is also known as the Scandinavian Alps and home to one of Norway’s largest ski centres.
This course meets in Oslo Gardermoen Airport on the Sunday (please be there by no later than 5pm), from where we’ll pick up hire cars to then drive the 200km north to Hemsedal, where we’ll be based for the week. The course includes five full days of ice climbing guiding and instruction and one full rest day, on which participants can choose to go walking, skiing or to simply have a rest. We will then head back to Oslo Gardermoen Airport the following Sunday.
Our accommodation will be in a large chalet, situated halfway between the towns of Hemsedal and Gol, which is perfectly placed for the majority of the climbing venues in the area. Please bring your own towel and sleeping bag liner/pillowcase, as linen isn’t provided. Rooms will be shared.
Food costs are not included in the course fees . We will club together for the weeks food and all help with cooking and cleaning.
It is worth mentioning that the average monthly temperatures in Hemsedal are considerably lower than Rjukan and we found that in 2020, whilst the ice climbing in Rjukan was in poor condition, with only the highest of routes holding on, the ice climbing in Hemsedal, even in the valleys, was amazing.
| Hemsedal | Rjukan | |
|---|---|---|
| January | -8.8 | -6 |
| February | -8.1 | -5.4 |
| March | -3.7 | -1.6 |
In terms of pre-requisites, we ask that participants have some previous mountaineering or climbing experience and are looking to develop their ice climbing skills. There is also the possibility of coached lead climbing, depending on your aspirations. It’s worth noting that you will cover far more steep ice that you would back on a typical day in Scotland. If you are unsure of your suitability, please get in touch.
Ratio: 1:2 Individuals or couples are welcome.
The course fee covers the guide fee for the ice climbing course. Please note that transportation within Norway, meals, snacks, equipment, airfares, insurance, and spending money are not included and will need to be arranged separately.
We can provide helmets, harnesses, ice axes, and crampons for your convenience during the course, or you are welcome to bring your own if preferred.
Socks –Go for a medium to thick pair of synthetic or wool/synthetic blend socks. You may like to wear a thin liner pair underneath the thicker pair.
Thermal/Base Layers –A couple of thermal layers are useful, along with thermal leggings. Powerstretch works well.
Fleeces or synthetic-filled jacket –At least one fleece layer for your upper body. If you get cold easily perhaps add a fleece gilet/vest to your layering. Having an extra fleece top or synthetic layer in a waterproof liner at the bottom of your rucksack is essential.
Down Belay Jacket -Essential for when belaying
Walking trousers –Polycotton, polyester or softshell is ideal.
Warm Hat & Gloves –With regards to gloves, it is best to have a thinnish pair of waterproof or softshell gloves to climb in, particularly when leading
Warm Mitts -For belaying
Waterproof jacket and over-trousers ( outer shell clothing) –Only a lightweight set of waterproofs are required for ice climbing in Norway
Softshell jacket and trousers –We recommend mid-heavy weight softshells. Thermals can be worn beneath if necessary.
Rucsac –A medium volume sac (35-50 litres) is best for winter climbing, with ice axe carrying loops. Everything needs to fit inside your sac.
Bivvy Bag –A large person sized poly or foil survival bag is the minimum requirement, essential.
Head Torch –Essential for all courses, plus spare batteries.
First Aid kit –A small personal pack including medication for blisters. Suncream and sunglasses if good forecast.
Flask –0.5-1 litre for hot drinks on the hill. If you take a flask, a waterbottle is optional. Don’t carry too much liquid in winter!
Ski Goggles
Trekking Poles -These are optional, but useful particularly in descent. One is probably enough.
Boots –For ice climbing, fairly modern B3 boots are recommended.
Crampons –Should have 12 or 14 points and be compatible with your boots. These need to be particularly sharp for steeper ice climbing. Vertical front points provide more security and displace less ice.
Ice Axe –Two modern technical tools with sharp picks. It’s important to also have a lanyard to attach the axes to your harness.
Helmet –Please bring one along if you can. We have DMM helmets available.
Harness -Please ensure you have at least two ice screw clippers (e.g. DMM Vault) attached to your harness.
Belay device, three HMS Carabiners, two prusiks and one 120cm sling
Other than the above kit, you will need regular clothing
Please note that this is a sample itinerary, and the exact program may vary depending on weather conditions, participants’ abilities, and aspirations. Our guides will carefully consider these factors to ensure a safe and enjoyable ice climbing experience in Rjukan.
For more detailed information or specific inquiries about the program, feel free to reach out to us. We look forward to providing you with an incredible ice climbing adventure in Rjukan!
This is a sample itinerary. The exact itinerary will be flexible and take your abilities, aspirations and the prevailing conditions into consideration.
You can find a fairly comprehensive list of ice climbs in Hemsedal on UK Climbing. The guidebook for ice climbing in Hemsedal is available in shops in Hemsedal itself.
Hemsedal is home to some of the most beautiful and accessible ice climbing in Norway and has routes for all abilities.
Please fill out the form below if you would like to book or have any enquiries. Most common enquiries are dealt with in our FAQs – try there first.
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Guided Ice Climbing Scotland 
